2004-11-04 - 6:20 p.m.

Around 10:00 my stomach starts to notice an emptiness, but the struggle is mostly mental. The desire to consume is mostly brought on by boredom or stress…comfort eating. By noon the emptiness is no longer questionable. I know not to go to Audrey’s where they will be eating lunch, and on the way home I avoid bakery’s, which emit hunger inducing odours. Around 2:00, the hunger becomes completely physical, and can only be battled mentally. I keep my mind busy doing things for work, reading books or painting. A good nap takes a chunk out of my day, as does laundry or any home repairs. By 4:00 the hunger turns to pain, but I know the battle is won for the day. Sundown is only and two and a half hours away and although I may still waver slightly, I know I will make it till levtar at which point I can do my best to make my stomach pains subside.

In the north of Mauritania, levtar generally begins with dates. This is because they are ample in the area, and are sweet stomach fillers. As all Mauritanians are ridiculous caffeine addicts, dates are always accompanied by tea. There are also copious amounts of zirig (sweet, watered down milk) and insha (warm watery pourage) to drink. I take in as much as I can which is nowhere near the amount of my Mauritanian friends who have gone all day without drinking in addition to not eating. I’m crazy and all, but I’m not that crazy. As soon as everyone has cleaned up, dinner is served. This is your typical rice and camel platter. If you’re lucky you might get a carrot or a leaf of cabbage. Mauritanians generally eat again at 10, and then at 4. I was born with not only a small stomach, but also an incredible affinity toward sleep, so I abstain from the second and third dinner. Instead I gorge myself in one huge dose. Don’t get me wrong; I snack until I pass out with half a banana hanging out of my mouth. I just don’t sit down to another huge meal.

And thus do the days of Ramadan pass for this Peace Corps Volunteer. For Muslims, the purpose of this month is to let everyone know what it is like to be poor. Although, I’m quite sure that the poor do not gorge themselves three times after sundown, it does give an idea of what starvation must feel like. I can only imagine the additional pain of not taking in water. I may give this a try next year, but for now, my body is only exposed to one plain of suffering. The days go by quicker, as I do everything possible to make 6:30 come faster. When it does, the prayer calls resonate from any one of the 40 mosques in town, giving the city of Atar the signal from God to eat again. When I’m at Audrey’s I often climb on her roof to listen for the call. Although, no one in the mosque closest to the house is chanting, I can here one on the other side of town. God must have gotten to them first. I generally trip over myself on the way down the stairs, and shove my face in a bowl of cleaned dates.

Now I know what everyone is saying: Why are you doing this? Well you see I am a firm believer that when in Rome do as the Romans. I wish to respect the traditions of the people around me. Even though I’m drinking water, I only do it where I can’t possibly be seen. To have to watch someone else gulp down water while you are dying of thirst is a torture I wish to inflict on no Mauritanian. Secondly, I am slightly masochistic, and I am always trying to see how far I can push myself to the end. Lastly and most importantly, my fasting is mostly due to my affluensic American tendencies. I spent too much money at the beginning of the month, so now I’m trying to save a few bucks.

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