2004-09-16 - 5:48 p.m.

The piercing call of my wrist watch rings in my ear and the first thing that comes into my mind is “This is my last day in M’Beidia.” I lift my head and look at the area surrounding my house for the last time under the cover of predawn. One thing is true, it did not look the same the first day I arrived. To my left stands a 10*10 m fence row containing 2 banana trees and a garden. On the far end are the four other trees protected by circular rings of deadfall. I exit my mosquito tent and enter the house to change into my running clothes, creeping around my family. I leave my house to run to Fondou as I have on every other day since I arrived in M’Beidia 2 and a half months ago. On returning to the house I greet my waking family. Looking at my mother I am reminded of the conversation we had 3 days before. We were waiting for my dad to get home from the river, and she asked me a question in Hassanyan. I didn’t understand; it had something to do with my travelling in Mauritania. I asked her to repeat, but before she even starts I noticed the tears welling in her eyes and I immediately understood.

“Yes, I will return to M’Beidia, everytime I can, and I will never forget you.” She smiled and wiped her eyes.

“Ok,” she replied. “When you were gone Zeinaboo and Fatamatou came back to visit.” Those are two of the girls that trained in M’Beidia last year. Their real first names are both Natalie. “They were over at Mamoona’s and were giving out mulafas (dresses) and all sorts of wonderfull presents to the children. All I could think was: Will Mohammed Lamine ever come back, then I started to cry.”

“No I will return all the time. Everytime I go to Kaedi I will stop here.”

Looking at her again as I make my way to the bucket bath I question the validity of my words. How often will I really be able to return. I will never forget them, and I will make every effort to get back, but will it be possible.

In the morning we have our last Hassanyan class at my house drinking tea and eating bagnettes. Alyoun and Haddou take turns asking us questions to respond to. Molly, Jeff and Haddou leave around noon. We plan to meet at Haddou’s around 3:00 where we will walk to the road and catch a taxi to Kaedi. After eating Lunch Alyoun announces he has to visit a sick man, but will return between 2:30 and 3:00 to say goodbye. I spend the next hour playing with the kids. I brought 2 frisbees with me to Mauritania, so I give them the spare as a going away present. After finishing my lesson of how to operate the wondourous object I try to give each of them a hug goodbye before they head out to the fields. After 2:00 I walk into town to say goodbye to Jeff and Molly’s families. Jeff’s dad interrogates me for 10 minutes trying to find out why we can’t stop in M’Beidia on our way to Atar. I finally convince him we have no power over the routes PC vehicles take. Saying goodbye to Molly’s family proves much quicker. As I was leaving her grandmother yelled at me how great I was and how I hadn’t caused any problems during my stay. Yelling I could still here as I passed the third house after theirs. Arriving home at 2:30 there was no sign of Alyoun. I do my best to stay calm, but I can feel a stomach ache coming on from too much worrying. Moy-de was still at the house so I try to pass time wrestling around with him.

A few minutes turn to 10, then 10 to 20 and before I know it 3:00 has rolled around and my father is not in site. I enter the house to pick up the last of my things PC had not gotten the day before. My mother was lying down still taking her nap. Looking towards Haddou’s house I see Jeff almost there with his host father and Molly close behind with most of her family. Where was Alyoun? I wait till 10 after, and biting a quivering lip I enter the house. My host mother looks up at me. All I could muster was “thank you” and “goodbye”. She replied in like tears welling in her eyes. I turned out the door and didn’t look back. Moy-de had my water bottles and would not give them up. He insisted on walking with me. Tears were running down my eyes as I walked away from my former home. Why hadn’t Alyoun come.? Then I looking ahead and I see him walking towards me. I quickly dry my cheeks. He takes my bag and mentioned something about the heat. It is inappropriate to cry in Maurtitania unless someone has died. We walk together to join the others. There is recognition in Jeff and Molly’s eye’s and nothing needs to be said. We all move together to the side of the road to wait for a cab. I am able to hold back the tears as we all wait together. Then my father says, “Saying goodbye is never the problem. The problem is forgetting.” I have to turn my back for a moment as I regain composure. All I can say is “I will never forget.” After what seems an eternity Haddou flags down a white landrover style SUV and we mount in. It took all my will power to hold back emotion. Looking into Alyoun’s bloodshot eye’s, shaking hands, I simply said thank you, to which he replies “No, thank you.” Our hands release and the car door closes. As soon as the vehicle is in motion the flood gates open. The other passengers look at me as If I were the center stage at a freak show, while Molly tries to console me. Haddou pats my back and says “It’s because he was so nice. They truly cared about you and will never forget you. You are part of their family now.”

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